End of the Carratera Austral and onto Argentina

It has been a while without access to the internet, with Xmas giving us a few days of no shops etc.  But truly stunning scenery and tough biking.  At times it has been all climbing and corrugations with a few (hundred!) horse flies thrown in to creat some challenges.  But we seem to have had a great run of the weather with every day sunny and warm. 

We left Coyhaique aiming for Chile Chico last week Monday and made good time doing 117kms that day which included 4 seasons in one day that saw us popping on full wet weather gear as we hit a snow shower coming through a valley near Cero Castillo.  We got the ferry that night across to Chile Chico and and the next day embarked on a three day bike to Cochrane along the southern shores of Lago General Carrerra, which was hilly but gave us some spectacular views across the lake to Cerro Castillo and some hair raising biking along steep mountain passes cut into the cliffs.

xmas dinner!

We had a few nights wild camping in the mountains and then a good overnight stop at the lake outlet as we feasted on roast lamb and homemade bread before getting into Coyhaique the next day after a good couple of steep gravel climbs.  We found a campsitein Cochrane  with about 12 other cyclists, like finding your tribe!  Pitched camp for a rest day and spent xmas eve there climbing the fruit tree´s to pick cherries and raspberries in the hedge for breakfast.  We biked off again south on Xmas morning and cranked out a 100km getting down towards the junction to Tortel off the Carratera where we camped beside a very NZ looking river cascading out of the beech clad mountains, xmas dinner was fried sausage and pasta in a tomato sauce…not quite turkey, but after  7 and half hour s in the saddle it was delicious!  We caught the ferry the next morning to get to the last section of the road to Villa O´Higgins and did most of the road yesterday, wild camped last night and were attacked by mozzies so headed off early this morning to get into town before lunch.  Found another campsite full of cyclists and the ferry across the Lago O’Higgins leaves tomorrow morning at 8 so will all be on it for the 2 day hike and trek across the hills to Argentina and Chalten.

patagonian biking

just had a swim in lago general carrera

the road from chile chico to port guadal along the lakes southern shores

coming into villa o´higgins today view to the north

The tree´s and rocks down here are fascinating, with the beech tree´s so similar to the nothofagus in NZ.  Fewer birds than I had thought, but some good similarities too, with an ibis, some plovers, kingfishers and robins to keep us company, but all very different looking to the ones we are used to in SA and NZ.  Lucy´s grasp of Spanish has been brilliant, getting us into all sorts of interesting conversations and making the interactions with Chileans much better and allowing us to learn a bit of what is happening down here.

Seven Days to Coyhaique

Well we made it to Coyhaique late last night after a solid 7 days on the bikes.  We had a good night in BA before heading to Esquel where we started biking straight from the airport.  Night before the border we feasted on Argentinian bifsteke de Lomo before crossing into Chile and heading to Futaleufu.  We then biked west towards Villa Santa Lucia and then turned south hitting La Junta, with some wild camping in between and now having a rest day at a super camp in Coyhaique catching up on food and sleep.
The most magnificent Patagonian scenery all this way with brilliant sunny days roasting us over siesta time and forcing us into shady spots in town squares, despite being surrounded by snowy peaks.  The roads have been rough, with Lucy likening it to cycling along a river bed at times and daily averages of 13km/h not unusual.  But we have averaged between 60 and 110km per day so making progress south.  Lots of beautiful little hummingbirds around, a kingfisher and a few parakeets to liven things up.  Having a fluent spanish cycling partner makes for great interactiosn with the locals as we ask to camp in someones field or look for the best bread shop in town, or as today when we buy a flyfishing license from a mad keen angler!  No fishing yet, but the rivers look superb and the time will come.
Bikes all in one piece so far and no wipeouts yet.....
Weatehr has cooled a bit since yesterday so we hope to be able to ride throughout the day going forward as until now we have lost the hours from 1pm to 6pm hiding in the shade! 
Will try and pop some photö´s up if we get a chance and if we don't get back on line before Xmas, Felis Navidad family, sending you lots of love nad thoughts over the festive time.

December Planning

So it has been a glorious start to December down in Otago with 6 days of over 20degree's and sunshine, almost unheard of this far south.  Lucy did the Rail Trail as prep and I went flyfishing in Southland.  Bikes are almost done, just finishing off the gears on Chrissy, working (?!) on the balcony...

We head off on Sunday 11th December and hoping to get a night in Buenos Aires before the flight to Bariloche which has been re-routed to Esquel and then a bus to Bariloche.  Might flag the bus and bike from Esquel instead.